Table Of Content:

  1. Ordering Questions
    1. Choosing the correct side: right or left?
    2. Finding the VIN
    3. When can I expect my package?
    4. Disclaimers
    5. Tracking a package
  2. Terminology
    1. What are CV Joints?
    2. Inner / Outer Joints
  3. Differences between Half Shafts, Complete CV axles, and U-Joints
    1. Half Shafts
    2. Complete CV axles
    3. U-Joints
    4. Female vs. Male Splines on U-Joint Axles
    5. Avoiding the "Driveshaft" Ambiguity
    6. What are Driveshafts?
    7. ATV vs UTV vs SxS
  4. Changing Bands on a Boot
    1. Installing Pinch-Type Bands
      1. Step 1: Hand Tighten
      2. Step 2: Pinch the Box Tab
      3. Step 3: After Pinching
      4. Step 4: Hammer Tab Flat
    2. Using the Economy Banding Tool with band-type clamps
      1. Step 1: Slip tail under buckle and draw tight
      2. Step 2: Bend excess back to hold
      3. Step 3: Attach banding tool
      4. Step 4: Tighten the banding tool
      5. Step 5: Bend back clamp
      6. Step 6: Tap down the ears
    3. Using the Professional Banding Tool
      1. Step 1
      2. Step 2
      3. Step 3
      4. Step 4
      5. Step 5
      6. Step 6
    4. Polaris Outlaw 500 / 525 Rear Inner Boot Instructions
  5. Remove and replace CV Joints and U-Joints
    1. General steps to remove an axle from an ATV
    2. ATV CV Axle removal and disassembly video
    3. Disassembly of a "Non-Rebuildable" U-Joint
      1. Step 1
      2. Step 2
      3. Step 3
    4. Installation of a "Non-Rebuildable" U-Joint
      1. Step 1
      2. Step 2

 


 

Ordering Questions

Choosing the correct side: right or left?

Axles are designated as “left” or “right” from the point of view of the driver, not from looking at the front of the vehicle. Think of the left as the “driver” side, and the right as the “passenger” side, like an automobile. Take extra care to make sure you’re ordering the correct part.

Finding the VIN

A Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is a unique 17-character string made out of both letters and numbers that contain a lot of information about that vehicle such as where and when it was made.

Vehicles made at the end of the calendar year are often labeled as being manufactured in the upcoming model year even though the two years use different parts. Split year vehicles also use different parts but are made in the same year. In this case you will need to know the month of the manufacture date. Both these problems are typically not apparent, so a VIN can confirm the exact date of manufacture.

By law, all ATVs and UTVs must be issued a VIN. Every vehicle made or sold in the US since 1971 has one. Its location is different between each OEM but can always be found somewhere permanent. Typically, it is stamped on the frame or a metal plate near the frame.

If you cannot find the VIN, try searching online for the location of the VIN on your vehicle or contact the manufacturer and ask them for its location. If you do contact the manufacturer, it's best to ask them to decode it for you. Possible VIN locations include:

  1. Left hand side below the motor, but not on the motor that is a different serial number
  2. Top of the steering shaft
  3. Behind the brush guard
  4. Behind the air filter
  5. On the swingarm bearings
  6. Near the A-Arm mounts

When can I expect my package?

Orders placed Monday - Friday before 4pm EST are processed and shipped out on the same day. Any order placed after 4pm EST will ship out the next business day. Orders placed on Fridays at 4pm and after will be shipped on the following Monday.

Transit times vary depending on the carrier and shipping destination.

 

  • Domestic orders are sent via FedEx, UPS or USPS:
  • "Free Shipping" typically arrive between 5 to 7 business days 1
  • "Expedited Shipping" typically arrive between 3 to 5 business days 1
  • "One-day Shipping" will arrive the next business day once the package is shipped 1
  • All International orders are sent via USPS or UPS:
  • Typical transit times are 6 to 10 business days 2

Disclaimers:

  1. Transit time are estimates and are not guaranteed. To ensure the package arrives on or before a specific date, please place the order over the phone and specify the needed delivery date. You may have to pay an additional shipping charge.
  2. Transit time are estimates and are not guaranteed. Shipping transit times vary depending on the country, customs, clearance, and local postal services. Unfortunately, these factors are outside of our control; we cannot offer a guaranteed delivery date.

Tracking a package

A unique tracking number is generated by our shipping carriers to track your package's status from the warehouse to your shipping address. It is generated after the carrier picks the package up from our warehouse. If you provided an email address, this tracking number will automatically be emailed to you.

To track your package, simply type the tracking number into Google, which will automatically determine the carrier and offer to track your package. You can also determine the carrier based on the tracking number format and visit their respective package tracking page. For convenience, the direct links those pages are listed below as well as a description of each carrier's tracking number format:

  • UPS- 18 characters long starting with "1Z" followed by 16 characters
  • USPS - 22-digit number

If you have not received the tracking number after the package has shipped, feel free to contact us.

 

Terminology

What are CV Joints?

A Constant Velocity joint (CV Joint) is one of the types of joints used on a vehicle's axle. A CV joint is made up of the housing, race, cage, and balls.

 

Inner / Outer Joints

A CV axle includes two CV joints: the inner and outer joints. The inner joint is the side closest to the differential, whereas the outer joint is the one closest to the wheel. The inner CV joint plunges in and out and is sometimes called the plunging joint. The outer joint does not plunge but rotates around to move with the wheel and suspension.

 

 

Differences between Half Shafts, Complete CV axles, and U-Joints

Half Shafts

A half shaft only has the outer CV joint assembled onto an axle shaft. The user then must install their original inner CV joint onto the half shaft to make the part a complete axle. Compare this to a complete CV axle which has both the outer and inner joints fully assembled.

Complete CV axles

A CV axle is located between the wheel and differential, sometimes it is incorrectly called a half shaft or drive shaft. A CV axle includes the inner and outer CV joints completely assembled onto an axle shaft.

U-Joints

U-Joint stands for universal joint. A U-Joint is a “cross” shaped joint that are widely used in drive line applications. U-Joints are usually found on almost all driveshafts and on the inner portion of most older CV axles. U-Joints are also called spider joints.

 

 

Female vs. Male Splines on U-Joint Axles

A U-Joint axle has one CV joint on the outboard side and a universal joint and yoke assembly on the inboard side. The u-joint yoke may have male or female type splines depending on the axle. A male splined U joint will have a splined shaft that goes into the differential. A Female splined U joint will have a splined opening in which a splined shaft from the differential goes into. This illustration compares the two.

 

 

Avoiding the "Driveshaft" Ambiguity

What are Driveshafts?

Drive shafts are located between the front and rear differentials, or between the differential and transfer case. Depending on the vehicle, it may have one or two drive shafts. 2x4 vehicles will only have one drive shaft, while 4x4 vehicles will have two. Depending on the publication/outlet, sometimes the axle will be referred to as a “drive shaft,” so please take extra care to confirm what part it is you are looking at.

ATV vs UTV vs SxS

ATV stands for All Terrain Vehicle. An ATV is always a single rider (some vehicles can have a passenger “seat” behind the driver seat) vehicle that you sit on instead of in. You sit on an ATV like you sit on a motorcycle. A Polaris Sportsman 500 is an example of an ATV.

UTV stands for Utility Vehicle. A UTV is always at minimum a 2-passenger vehicle that you sit in, just like an automobile. You have a driver seat and next to it a passenger seat. Utility vehicles are more work focused vehicles, usually found on farms and ranches. UTVs typically have a bed on the back or other work-related accessories.  A Kawasaki Mule 3010 is an example of a UTV.

SxS stands for Side by Side. A SxS is a passenger vehicle that you sit in, just like an automobile. Side-by-sides can come in 1-, 2-, 4-, and even 6-passenger configurations. A SxS is more of a sport recreational vehicle than a UTV. While both have driver and passenger seats a SxS is more aggressive and sportier. A Can-Am Maverick MAX X3 Turbo is an example of a SxS.

 

Changing Bands on a Boot

Installing Pinch-Type Bands

There are no special tools required to install pinch type clamps. The pinch type clamps are sent with all our boot kits and CV joint kits and are specifically sent because no special tools are required. A pair of pliers or tile snips will be the only tools needed to install a pinch type clamp.

Step 1: Hand Tighten

Start by wrapping the band around your boot once its seated on your joint. While this guide shows the inner joint, this guide works with the outer too. Looking at the band, you will notice it has notches and tabs. Hand tighten the band by squeezing the band and locking your tabs into your notches as tight as possible.

Step 2: Pinch the Box Tab

Notice there is a little box tab that protrudes out more than the other tabs. You will want to take your tool and pinch the sides of that little box.

Step 3: After Pinching

Once you have pinched the box tab, it should mushroom up as seen in the picture.

Step 4: Hammer Tab Flat

The last thing you want to do is grab a small tack hammer and just tap down the mushroomed tab till its flat, just in case there are clearance issues.

 

Using the Economy Banding Tool with band-type clamps

Step 1: Slip tail under buckle and draw tight

Wrap the clamp around the CV boot and thread the tail through the buckle. Draw it tight

Step 2: Bend excess back to hold

Helpful Tip: Bend the excess tail backwards to hold it in.

Step 3: Attach banding tool

Insert the tail of the clamp into the head of the banding tool and slide it through the slot of the winding mandrel.

Step 4: Tighten the banding tool

Tension the clamp with a clockwise motion using a ¾" socket wrench.

Step 5: Bend back clamp

After sufficient tension has been applied (the clamp is tight enough to hold the boot from turning on the joint but not too tight that the boot is damaged), lever the tool back over the buckle to put a bend in the clamp to hold the tension (you may want to tap it with a hammer to put a good crease).

Step 6: Tap down the ears

Complete clamp installation by tapping down the tail of the clamp against the buckle and then tapping down the buckle ears to hold the clamp tail. Cut off excess band with the tin cutter.

 

Using the Professional Banding Tool

Step 1

Wrap the clamp around the CV boot and thread the tail through the buckle. Draw it tight.

Step 2

Insert the tail of the clamp into the head of the banding tool and slide it through the slot of the winding mandrel.

Step 3

Depress the locking pawl and tension the clamp with a clockwise motion of the ratchet.

Step 4

After sufficient tension has been applied (the clamp is tight enough to hold the boot from turning on the joint but not too tight that the boot is damaged), lever the tool back over the buckle to put a bend in the clamp to hold the tension (you may want to tap it with a hammer to put a good crease).

Step 5

Cut off excess band with the cutter and remove the tool.

Step 6

Complete clamp installation by tapping down the tail of the clamp against the buckle and then tapping down the buckle ears to hold the clamp tail. Remove excess band from the tool by lifting the locking pawl and removing the ratchet.

Polaris Outlaw 500 / 525 Rear Inner Boot Instructions

  • This kit is slightly different than OEM, which is why the modified replacement clip is supplied.
  • Boot may be a little shorter, so for this reason it might be required to loosen the small clamp and push it back toward the differential and re-tighten the clamp.
  • Polaris recommends using a rubber sealant with the boot (like what is used on seating a tire to a metal rim). This can be done by removing the clip and clamp and pulling the boot away from the differential. Wipe the area where the boot will contact the metal with a clean rag (dampened with break clean to degrease thoroughly).
  • Do the same to the area of the boot to insure it's also grease free.
  • Apply the sealant all the way around the contact area and push the boot gently in to the flange just enough to allow you to insert the clip into the groove.
  • This should be done by separating the clip so that one end of the clip can be inserted into the groove and pushing back in as you work your way around the making sure that the clip is in all the way to the back of the groove.
  • Once it has dried thoroughly, slide a flat head screwdriver in between the boot and the shaft to allow air in and pull the axle out all the way until it stops and then push back in until it stops then set it at the mid-range.
  • Now push the boot back just beyond the groove that the OEM one sets into and attach the small clamp.

 

Remove and replace CV Joints and U-Joints

General steps to remove an axle from an ATV

  • Jack the vehicle off the ground and secure it from rolling.
  • Remove the wheel.
  • Remove the axle nut (the large nut on the outside of the hub)
  • Separate the lower ball joint from hub assembly. Then do the same for the tie rod end
  • The hub will be able to swing out away allowing the outer CV joint to be slipped out through the back. This may require a tap on the threaded end of the outer CV joint. Put the axle nut back on half-way so that you can tap on it without damaging the threads.
  • The inner CV joint will be the only thing holding it axle in place. The inner CV joint is held in by a "c" clip, just pry it away from the differential and it will pop out, you may need to tap it from behind. Now you should be able to pull it out of the differential.

ATV CV Axle removal and disassembly video

 

Disassembly of a "Non-Rebuildable" U-Joint

Step 1

Use a press or hammer to force the bearing cap out of the staked ear hold. This may require considerable force but be careful not to damage the ear holes or bend the yoke or flange ears.

Step 2

Use a vise or pliers to remove the bearing cap which is exposed on the opposite side. Twisting the pliers back and forth while pulling may help unseat the cap.

Step 3

Use a small grinding wheel to smooth the staked ear hole on the driven side in order to make the removal of the opposite bearing cap easier. Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining bearing caps. Once all the caps are removed, discard the used joint. Inspect the yoke and flange for damage, cleaning out the remaining staked tabs and any excessive burs. This will help make installing the new caps easy.

Installation of a "Non-Rebuildable" U-Joint

Step 1

Press the new U-Joint and bearing caps into position and insert the "C" clip

Step 2

Use a press or hammer to expose the opposite slot, then insert the second clip. Repeat the above steps for the remaining clips. Make sure all the clips are completely seated into the groove of the new bearing caps